Shop Improvements

[Weez]

I am about ready to finish the table I have been working on and while the paint dryes and in between sanding I would like to put together a cut off box for the table saw. I've looked a quite a few designs but was wonder what the folks here used.

Thanks for your help.

Weez

[Joanne (Guest)]

I can't advise on what to make, but here's what I do with my cutoffs in the summer: they drop directly into a cardboard box. Then when the box is full, I pick it up and dump it into a large old cedar chest at the back of the shop. Then in the winter, I place the chest beside the fireplace for kindling. Both functional and attractive in 'shabby chic' style. Actually, I bought the chest thinking I'd refinish it and use it for blankets, but it was so yucky inside with paint and old wallpaper (who would've - ???) I didn't know what to do with it until I thought of this. The outside looks nice but the inside doens't have to. :)

[Sarah]

Hi Weez,
This is the high cost, no work solution... I finally broke down and bought a Jointech Smartmiter so I could have accurate crosscuts at any angle. I think it is really pricey ($259), but it is also really nice to be able to easily set the angle and to use the scale to get the exact length of cut you want. On the other hand, building a cut off box for set angle cuts is a good project and there are lots of plans out there. I am sure someone will be able to recommend a good one. Have fun with it!

-Sarah

[JohnP]

LAST EDITED ON Jun-22-01 AT 12:53PM (CDT)

Weez; I don't have a suggestion on a cut off box, I use a sliding table attached to the saw. Serves the same function with greater stability, plus it has a long miter fence. You might want to check out John Lucas's web site http://www.woodshopdemos.com/, in the past he has demo'ed some. Also http://www.woodshopdemos.com/rklr-1.htm
Just a thought.
JohnP

[John Lucas]

Wheez,
I was reading Sarah's answering and wanting to 2nd that and then read on to John P and his directing you to my site. So let me explain. I have used the 52" Excalibur Sliding Table, the Exaktor 26" one; and presently using the Rockler sliding table...with costs of about $400, $300, and 150 respectively. And now I just got in the Incra Super Miter Sled which I havent really had time to use...but I think Sarah is right on...it is Incra and well worth the money.
As to the question of sliding tabble or sled...I view the sliding table as handling longer panels from about 40 up to 6 or 8 feet. For small craft work (boxes, frames, et al) I think the TS mounted sled using both miter slots makes a lot of sense.
Most of these are shop built with 3/4" hardwood for the runners. If I were to make one today, I think I would buy two Incra miter slides...I think they cost about 20 each but they are great to fit into the miter slot and can be adjusted to fit the slot and minimize slop.
For either Incra product, you can see them and buy them at woodpeckers www.woodpeck.com (http://www.woodpeck.com) - they are very knowledgable people. They may have a sled plan.
John Lucas
www.woodshopdemos.com (http://www.woodshopdemos.com)

[Sue]

Weez,

I use the same type of sled that Norm uses in the New Yankeee Workshop. I have one to crosscut at 90% and one to crosscut at 45%. I haven't had the need for any other angles, but if I did, I'd build a separate sled. The cost is basically nothing since I used scraps of plywood and hardwood laying around the shop.

I use my 90% sled ALL the time. I never make any final crosscuts at my radial arm saw...it just doesn't do a good job (I think a blade stabilizer might help but I just haven't got around to buying one).

Let us know what you decide on.

Sue

[barbsiddiqui]

Hi Weez-
Back from vacation, and I have a suggestion, if you haven't built one already. In my opinion, 'the simpler, the better', and the 'sooner' it's up for use! I've seen some designs with "laser cut accuracy" that look so complicated and so 'do-everything' that I wonder when the person can get time to build a project! I don't know what kind of saw tabletop you have, but if it isn't large, be careful to not 'overbuild' your cutoff box. I use a simple flat 1/4" panel of good plywood, with a low fence at the back of 1/2" hardwood trim. The only crucial measurement is being certain the slides in the miter slots ride at 90 degrees to the fence you attach. My main suggestion comes from Tage Frid's book (Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, 2 Vols. in One) where he suggests placing copper pennies in the miter slots before leveling your long 3/4" wide slides and attaching them to the flat panel above. That way, they don't bottom out and bind in the slots, and your whole sled will move more easily. Let us know what you decided to do! Once you have it made, you'll be surprised how often you reach for it, and how simple it makes all those crosscuts. -Barb S.

[Weez]

Wow great suggestions. Now the dission process. My nephew is in from FL so I have been playing with and 8yr old for 2 days, man am I wore out. Love it though. God bless those with alot of those young ones running around.

For financial reasons, (saving for a good bandsaw, and a hand plane.) I think I am just going to build a sled for now. The one thing I think I would like is to have it sit in both miter slots? Out of all the books that I have none have this particular item in it. But I think there is enough out there to get the set up right.

John Lucas web page has some really good setups for the sleds that he has demonstrated and I should get some ideas from that. Hope you don't mind John.

The Jointech that Sara has looks pretty slick too, but for now I just have to droool.

Thank you all for your help and suggestion I'll let you know how it comes out.
Weez

[Weez]

Hey Barb
Welcome back I hope you enjoyed the visit with you grand children!
Weez

[John Lucas]

the website is for that purpose. Is would delight me to think that I have contributed.

[handi]

Weez,

Any time a sled or jig will span the blade, I use both slots for guides. A couple of hints:

1) For the guides use nylon, UHMW or some other plastic material. (www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com) is a great source) The nylon is easy to work with, UHMW is self lubricating, and the plastics will not swell and shrink.

2) Once the runners are cut to dimension, I drop them into the miter slots with a shim underneath them to raise them up to the table level. I set the ripfence and drop the sled panel on top of the runners, up against the ripfence. Now you can drill and screw the runners on.

Hope this helps,

Ralph