kitchen drawer dividers

[Diana]

This may sound idiot-simple, if so, please forgive me; I'm seeking information on making kitchen drawer dividers. Material, joinery, etc. I don't just want all-one-size compartments similar to a shoe cubby.

I have 6 large drawers that are screaming for organization; one is sitting in my shop while I try different ideas trying to find one that I really like.

Please, HELP.............

[handi]

Diana,

I'm in the middle of a full kitchen remodel myself and recently dealt with this issue.

I created two dividers, one for silverware and one for dishes.

Both were baltic birch panels that fit the bottom of the drawer. The silverware one and a grid of 1/4" holes and the dish one had 1/2" holes.

For silverware, Finished slats are drilled to match the hole spacings. That way I can screw them in any araingement on the baltic panel.

The Dish drawer has 1/2" dowels that are placed into the holes to hold plates and bowls in place.

I can add photos if you need.

Hope this helps,

Ralph

[Diana]

Thank you very, very much. Yes, I would appreciate photos.

[pampine]

LAST EDITED ON Nov-28-03 AT 01:04PM (CDT)

LAST EDITED ON Nov-28-03 AT 01:03 PM (CDT)

You really only have to half lap thin slats (1/4-3/8" thick) to make a grid. If you want it more finished and/or easier to clean, put a thin false bottom in the drawer, then install the grid. You could also half lap (or make tiny sliding dovetails) end pieces, then glue, which would make it all sturdier. Then I'd finish with a very thin coat of shellac to aid in keeping them clean without a nasty smell.

You can batch the half lapping. If you're milling the slats from thick stock, you could cut the half laps prior to milling. If not, you can clamp them all together and then cut the half laps.

Poplar would be a good choice for materials.

Pam

[handi]

Ok, here are the pictures:

The first is the silverware drawer. In the empty section you can see the holes from the unused portion of the grid. The dividers can be configured in multiple ways, and even made different sizes.


The dish drawer is even simpler. The dowels simply fit into the holes where you want to separate the dishes.


Hope this helps,

Ralph

[Woodcutting fool]

...about two weeks ago. Having a much much smaller drawers than on those pictures I opted for using 1/8 inch thick masonite. I had a 4 by 8 sheet laying around and it takes paint beautifully.

I made 5 or six spaces for silverware and above that space across the drawer at its top for utensils, particularly rarely used ones since I have another drawer for my most commonly used utensils.

First of all I should warn you I'm a huge cooking fanatic. Just tonight I bought a full set of OXO good grips utensils and 8 piece set of solid stainless steel silverware (bistro style, brushed finish stainless -- it shows less fingerprints and scratches in the long run).

So anyway back to the project. I had a 1/8 inch solid carbide router bit from an inlay pattern maker I ordered from MCLS so I used that to make dividers where I wanted in the drawer bottom. I did the same on the drawer sides. They glue up in dado joints and butt joints. I painted it with KILZ primer then with dark blue paint. I'd show you pictures but I don't have a digital camera, sorry. Anyway it worked well for me.

My other tip -- dry teflon spray on both the drawer runners themselves and the cabinets. They will glide almost like they are on ball bearings.Good Luck!