Serious Dado Beginner Help Needed

**Eljay** · 05-11-2001, 03:32 PM

:-) Ok kids, I have a nice little 10" Delta table saw (remember I am winging it here, on my own with no mentor to talk to about this), and I want to try using a dado blade to cut my wood for framing. The owners manual says nothing except how to change blades. Is there anything I should know? Are they easy to install? Are there any little secrets I should know? Is an inexpensive blade ok? ($49.00 at Rockler) Is it easy to put on and remove as needed? I saw 2 kinds, single blade that wobbles or something and 2 blades with little disks, etc.) The guy at Home Depot the other day was not into talking saw blades with a woman, and I got the feeling it was maybe because he didn't know. You know the Home Depot little guy in the orange apron shuffle:-) Thanks guys I appreciate your imput, you don't know how hard it is to come to a forum and ask really dumb questions. But my crystal ball is out being polished.
Have a great weekend kids.
Eljay
(For Raven: Linda Jo=LJ=Eljay, pretty cool don't ya think?

**Raven** · 05-11-2001, 06:33 PM

Eljay,

No question is too "dumb". Remember that everyone is learning all the time, it doesn't matter if we've been working wood for 5 days or 50 years. I'm no expert, but I have heard that wobble dadoes are dangerous, and leave an unsatifactory cut. I would always buy the best blades that you can afford. I bought the Jesada dado set(around 150 bucks I think), and have used it a few times with success. There are two outer blades and then a set of chippers to go between them. You put in as many chippers as the width that you want. Other than sounding like a jet airplane to me, it was easier than I thought. The cut was excellent. I haven't used it a lot though, so don't have experience beyond that.

Raven

**barbsiddiqui** · 05-11-2001, 07:14 PM

Eljay- (Linda Jo, I like it!)
I had a wobble dado and traded it for the stacked version. I think in dado sets,
you're going to get what you pay for, as in most tools. I've been using it a lot
lately to do 1/4" finger joints, and I've done some -3/4" grooving with it to
inset shelves in case sides, as well as 1/2" rabbets, done in one step instead of
two on the tablesaw. They are not at all hard to install, if you're careful to
avoid some knuckle banging. Be careful not to clack the teeth together
unnecessarily so as not to chip them, especially if they are carbide. Use
it cutting upward in increments, not hogging off 3/4" depths at a time.
You need a wider throat plate opening for it, too, but those are easily made,
if your saw didn't come with one. My advice would be, if you're going to
get one, don't get a 'cheap' one...you'll just want to upgrade almost immediately.
Just my two cents! -Barb S.

**handi** · 05-12-2001, 05:54 AM

Eljay,

A cheap dado blade isn't worth the trouble it will give you. I've had one for many years and almost never used it because the cut was terrible. I finally built a jig for my grinder and reground the two blades and the wings to get them all even

Personally, I do most of my dados with a router. It is far faster and easier to set up, leaves a clean bottom, and it you use a downshear spiral blade, it will cut the most fragile veneer without chipping. Last issue of ShopNotes had plans for a circular saw crosscutting jig that could easily be used for super fast router dados.

If you decide to buy a dado set, save up until you can afford a really good one, otherwise the money is a waste. I'm not one to not save money when I can, but this is one time that you'll get your money's worth.

Hope this helps,

Ralph

**Flyinghorse** · 05-12-2001, 06:10 AM

I am in complete agreement with Raven and Barb.
I would also like to suggest a great book: "Table Saw Techniques" by Roger W. Cliffe, published by Sterling Publishing Co.. It covers alot of ground: safety, maintainance, jigs and techniques. You may be able to find it in your local library.
Also would like you to know I've been it the business for over 25 years and I still ask questions and learn something new everyday.
When you stop asking you stop learning.
So keep those questions comin'.;-)

Later,
BJ Wilkinson

**Flyinghorse** · 05-12-2001, 01:29 PM

Handi makes a good point about the down shear bits. They do a much better cut across the grain than a saw blade or a straight bit. This does not mean can't get a clean cut with a saw, just that more care must be taken and very sharp blades used.

While a brand new stacking dado set will give you a very clean bottom on your dado, it will not be as flat after the first sharpening and get worse with each there-after. Most of the time this is not a problem (if the edge will be hidden).

Handi,
Didn't mean to leave you out. You must have posted just before I did.

Later,
BJ Wilkinson

**Eljay** · 05-12-2001, 05:33 PM

Thanks for the book reference, I am going to hunt it up the first of the week. And I am going to spring for the good dado blade as in a week or so.
Eljay

**Andy (Guest)** · 05-21-2001, 02:46 PM

Eljay, one other point: Is your Delta table saw a bench type, contractor type, or other? Be aware that many of the bench type saws have too short an arbor to take a dado set, or at best can only take a narrow set of stacked dado blades.

Hope this helps ...

Andy

**mike (Guest)** · 05-21-2001, 08:29 PM

Eljay: Andy is correct in stating that the arbor is short and will not take a full sixe dado set.I have a Delta 10" table saw and it will not take a dado set so i just use my router, Much faster that way and no removal of the blade. Try it Regards mike

**Eljay** · 05-21-2001, 11:03 PM

Mike,
I got the dado blade, talked to Delta and the arbor would hold the 2 blades and one 1/16" (i think it is 1/16, the smallest) chipper ok. I am not doing a large dado but just 1/4 inch or a little more, maybe 3/8's inch deep. I have been using a router, but I just thought it might be easier using the saw. At this point it seems to be 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the other. Thanks so much for your imput.
Eljay