Hello Everyone !!!
I have a 12" Sears Craftsman Band saw, which is about 4 years old. I'm doing a tune up on it and can not get the top of bottom wheel coplanared. I just recently learned about coplanaring the the wheels. The blade always tracks to the left side of the bottom wheel. It's right on center on the top wheel after the blade is tensioned and tracked properly. The only place I can see to make an adjustment is where the top and bottom assemblies are held together, with a large 3/4" hex bolt. Is this where I need to make make my adjustment? If so will I then be able to get both wheels coplanared? Is there any one else out there with a similar saw, who maybe be able to help?
Looking forward to any information that comes my way.
I have a Craftsman 12" model 137.224320 saw. I do have the manual and no where in the manual does it mention the word coplanar. I even called the Sears help and they didn't know what I was talking about and so I go no help from them.
I'll wait and see if any one else replies and has any helpful information. Thanks any way for your reply.
Don't get too stressed about this. What you are needing is for the blade to track properly. Since the top wheel has a tracking adjustment that tilts it off of the vertical plane, the wheel CANNOT be coplanar. I've worked with bandsaws for over 20 years and never worried about it.
With the saw unplugged, remove the blade and be sure that the lower wheel turns freely and the bearings are good. If you grasp the wheel at 3 and 9 O'clock (like a steering wheel) and gently try to rock it forward and back, you should feel no play.
If that is all good, replace the blade, tension it, and turn the wheels by hand. If the blade starts to run to the back of the wheel rim, tilt the top wheel so that the top moves outward. If the blade tracks to the front, tilt the top of the wheel inward. You can adjust it as you turn the wheel slowly. One you think you have it, turn the wheel faster to be sure of it, then lock the adjustment. Reset your guides and guards and run the saw. the blade ought to track propery.
Remember that the rubber tires on the wheels are crowned higher in the center than at the edges, thats why there is the tracking adjustment.
I hope this helps, please feel free to ask any other questions you might have.
In addition to what Ralph mentions, you may need to replace the tries. Durning your tune up, make sure the tires are round (I know that sounds stupid), the tires can develope flat spot and so forth. I use a fine grit sanding block to true the wheels on mine.
Here is an excerpt describing the adjustment for the 12 inch Craftsman:
"On Sears 12" and Inca 10" saws, the lower wheel can be moved by unlocking a set screw and shifting the wheel on its shaft. For other saws, have a good squint and figure out which wheel is adjustable."
I have a Sears 12" bandsaw and found a way to make the wheels coplanar. i take a board (plywood works well as tends to stay straight) about 12" long and 2-3" wide. drive a small finishing nail in one end of it and hang the board by the nail on the top wheel. do the same with a second board and hang it on the bottom wheel. Now the boards will stick out far enough to place astraight edge on each and see if the wheels line up. I often find the bottom wheel is set in up to 1/2 " from the top wheel. you can adjust the bottom wheel with a 4mm (.156" or 5/32") hex wrench for the set screw.
youmay have to drill a 1' hole in the center of each of the boards if the axles of the wheels do not allow the boards to correctly touch both rims of the wheels.
if you still need more help, reply and i can send you via e-mail or upload pictures of the solution.
i llike the Sears bandsaw, but keep having to adjust this feature as well as the drive wheel as it keeps coming loose on the shaft. has this eveer happened to you?
Dusty in Iowa
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