Repairing Oak Futon Frame

**tryin2learn** · 07-22-2008, 03:15 PM

I have a queen size oak futon and need to replace one of the two "stretchers" (a 1"x3"x80" oak board). The futon shop I bought this from years ago suggested that I just buy an oak board and do it myself. So I went and bought a 1"x3"x8ft red oak board at Menard's today along with a 3/8" boring bit for my hand drill. I need to put two holes in each of the board's narrow 1"x3" ends. Then, on the flat 3"x8' side, I need to bore a 3/8" hole half-way through the board. The idea is that you have special futon hex bots that go through the futon arm, into the end of the stretcher, and then you lock the bolt with a special futon barrel nut.
My biggest concern is what is the best way to drill the end holes without splitting the oak board. I'm comfortable using a drill for repairs around the house but, I have never used it to drill through a new piece of narrow oak wood before. Any suggestions??

**woodWizard** · 07-22-2008, 06:24 PM

The easiest approach is to drill a smaller hole first, say 1/8" and then go to the size required. Wrap masking tape around the drill bit to mark the correct depth.. Oak has a grain that is "open pored" thus you hit high and low density sections that want to make the bit wander.. less prone to this if you drill a smaller pilot hole first.

but aside from that you may have an issue with strength. I have used a similar type of connection with handrail installations and by the time you drill the correct size of hole for the lag, you typically have very little wood left to play with on either side.. if you are able, I'd take some of the leftover pieces of 1x3 and glue them on the ends to reinforce or go to a thicker material .. say 5/4.. or a full 1" in thickness.. will be alittle harder to find and may have to visit a local woodworking shop .. good luck Karen

**tryin2learn** · 08-01-2008, 02:57 PM

Thank you SO much for your advice! I did as you suggested and first drilled with a 1/8" bit and then switched to the 1/4" and used the masking tape to help me judge depth. My boring bit went through to the other end a little but, it's not too noticeable and really isn't going to effect the strength of the stretcher rail. I'm going to put my "custom" built rail on the back of the futon and use the other one in the front where most of the weight would be.
I'm thinking that I might use the MinWax Polyshades one-step stain & polyurethane finish. Have you used this stuff before? If you have, do you have any advice about preparation, brushing it on, and/or dry time?

P.S. I was really nervous about doing this little project and you're suggestions made it a LOT easier which built-up my confidence. Thanks again!

**annieseth** · 12-27-2012, 03:14 AM

Originally Posted by tryin2learn

Thank you SO much for your advice! I did as you suggested and first drilled with a 1/8" bit and then switched to the 1/4" and used the masking tape to help me judge depth. My boring bit went through to the other end a little but, it's not too noticeable and really isn't going to effect the strength of the stretcher rail. I'm going to put my "custom" built rail on the back of the futon and use the other one in the front where most of the weight would be.
I'm thinking that I might use the MinWax Polyshades one-step stain & polyurethane finish. Have you used this stuff before? If you have, do you have any advice about preparation, brushing it on, and/or dry time?

P.S. I was really nervous about doing this little project and you're suggestions made it a LOT easier which built-up my confidence. Thanks again!

MinWax Polyshades is a great finish for your wood. What I love about this product is that it can give you stain and finish in one brush. It also provides polyurethane protection to the wood. The cost is affordable and it is really worth the price. I used it often with my wood projects and I highly recommend it. - Annie