Finishing Pine

**Weez** · 05-09-2001, 03:56 PM

I am not used to working with pine (white pine). The boards are 8/4, and really nice stuff. The problem I have it has a very high resin content, I can feel it in my hands when I work with it. I just wanted to see if there was anything special I needed to do before I finished it. I will be using a stain and then paint (oil base), with a laquer topcoat. The person I am making it for wants it distressed, this goes against everything I have been taught in furniture making, I spent alot of time not to have dings and dents in what I make, but thats what she wants. Kind of breaks my heart to take a chain and a bunch of nails to it.
Thanks ahead of time.

Weez

**Woodshopdemos (Guest)** · 05-09-2001, 04:28 PM

I try not to work in pine these days. Its resin contents can play havoc with lots of things. Only thing I can suggest is to seal the wood before you put any paint or other finish on it. I have used a white shellac wash coat but I understand that paint companies have a special pine sealer to seal knots and the like.
As to the distressing, Weez, I can feel your pain. The sideboard I am now finishing up is suppose to be distressed and then painted white with a distressed look. Well, the good part is that I am not doing any of the distressing nor the finishing...but it pains me to work so hard at having everything perfect and then to think they will unleashed whips and chains on it.
I grimaced at that thought last time I talked with client, and she has now said, no distressing of the wood, just a distressed look finish. She had found a Behr folder with a number of good antiquing looks.
I dont quite understand why you would want to put a laquer topcoat over the white, oil based paint.
Here is the project: www.woodshopdemos.com/phy-sb69.jpg">http://www.woodshopdemos.com/phy-sb69.jpg</a>
and the story starts here: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/phy-sb-1.htm

John Lucas
www.woodshopdemos.com

**edfan** · 05-09-2001, 05:24 PM

Reply, if it's going to be painted, you might consider using Zinsser anti-stain primer as a first coat. A spit coat of shellac also helps but that primer makes ceramic tile paintable!

**handi** · 05-10-2001, 07:37 PM

Weez,

For better or worse, the distressed look is in. In fact, Ethan Allen has done some amazing experiments to get that look. Some of the devices they use look like props from a "Mad Max" movie! I also know another shop that torches much of their stuff to give it an aged look. Me, I want that look in my upcoming kitchen, but I'm using actual 100+ year old barnboard to get it

Just thought I'd throw these observations out there,

Ralph

**Weez** · 05-12-2001, 03:17 AM

Hey thanks for the comments. Been working on the flower side, mothers day ya know. Next week is all shop time though, woo hooo! I am not sure why I am putting the laquer, on the test piece I did that and it looked sharp, I should say a clear coat, I might not use that on the final though.
Have a great weekend.
Weez

**Plane** · 05-16-2001, 08:57 AM

I thought that I should add information on why you should put lacquar on painted wood. If you want a painted surface out side always lacqar it. This makes the weather paint that you use not peal or fade. It would be nice to put on more than one coat of lacquar if you can. I do this to my out door furniture and it works great. My husband had just ask the same question on protecting with poly on the outdoors paint ( I', painting the workshop)and he want to see if I was going to add polo to the surface. Most people don't put on poly or lac. if they are painting a house because of the cose invoved. But if you want your paint to be sealed then put on lac. or poly for the paint outdoors.