Shaper/Router Table

**Weez** · 05-01-2002, 05:56 PM

I have been doing some thinking about router tables and shapers, a smaller shaper 1 1/2 hp or 2hp. Why the router table in stead of the shaper? Is it because the speed is not fast enough for smaller router bits? and it is more for running the wider diameter bits?
Cost I figure by the time you get done setting up the table, buying the router (of course you need to get another one, just cause) and then the fence and etc there is quite alot invested.

Shapers I know use a spindle rather that a collet type, but some of the models have collet inserts.

Just looking for some inputs.

Have a great evening
Weez

**handi** · 05-01-2002, 08:21 PM

Weez,

As ever with tools, it's a question of what you want to do with it.

The shaper (even at 1 1/2 hp) is far more powerful than any hand router, and has more torque meaning less bogging down. The shaper cutters are much larger, so they tend to last a lot longer and can be sharpened more times.

The shaper cutters are far more expensive, however so buying that "once in a blue moon" bit that Carol talks about is a much more difficult decision. But as you point out, you can get a collet for the shaper.

The router table is typically much easier to set up, can be shop built (cutting cost dramatically) and, of course, you can remove the router for hand work.

Essentially, get the shaper if you are going to be doing large quantities of projects. (stile and rail doors, handrails, moldings, etc) If you are looking at more one of a kind projects and lots of versatility, go for the router table.

At work, I have three routers (a PC690 plunge/fixed set, a Fein mounted in the CMT router table and my Freud FT2000E about to be replaced with a company Bosch 1619EVS) as well as a few smaller tables and numerous shop built jigs. I also have a SAC 5hp shaper. The shaper is unsurpassed at making the big stair handrails that we need, but 80+ percent of my milling is done by either hand routing or router table. It's just faster and easier to set up. Since everything we do is custom, there are a lot of setups. Yesterday I had to create two newell caps. There were 6 router setups and 4 table saw setups to create about 36 total inches of molding.

I hope this helps you out,

Ralph

**JohnP** · 05-02-2002, 12:56 AM

I tend to agree with Ralph and would add; First I like shapers over router tables,more continues power, more torque, and even if I run the shaper for an hour without stop it doesn't heat up. How ever I also use a router table with a PC 7518 mounted in it. If I chip or destroy a router bit on Sunday and have to replace it that day I normally can. Cutters for the shaper are normally avaible only from a supply house or mail order.
Someting to consider
JohnP

**Virginia Hoeffding** · 05-02-2002, 08:02 AM

Weez, I completely agree w/ the two previous posts. A couple of other things to consider, apart from a router's being more versatile when used as a hand-held tool: for many things it's easier to control (i.e. get good results) when used in a table, even in situations when you could do it by hand -- e.g. running a profile on narrow stock with a bearing bit. If you're a professional woodworker for whom time is a major consideration, yeah, you need to buy a second router -- but otherwise, with a bit of thought and time invested in how to switch back and forth, you really don't need a second one just for hand-held vs. table operations (OTOH, there are situations when you might want two just because you're doing a lot of work involving a couple of different setups -- sort of like having one drill set up to do the pilot hole and another set up to drive the screw...)

Also, don't assume that you have to go out and buy it all... my router table is a slab of melamine that I pulled out of a dumpster, on a cheap pine base w/ a couple of hinged casters so I can move it around. Built the fence from 3/4 and 1/2" Baltic birch, with a cutout to use the shop vac for dust collection (VERY effective, BTW). The only specialized thing I went out and bought was a very good quality table insert; all it takes to set up the router for the table is removing and replacing three screws. When I'm not using the table, it's the outfeed table for my tablesaw. And it didn't take forever to build -- probably not much longer than I would have spent fine-tuning a lot of expensive store-boughten stuff. If you go with the shaper -- yeah, the bits are a lot more expensive, then you'll want to get a power feeder for it, etc., etc.

But it depends what you plan to do with it -- if you're going to be running 100's of feet of architectural millwork, then by all means get the shaper. And I seem to recall that if your shop has three-phase power, you can easily run a shaper in either direction...

Good luck --

--V.

**JohnP** · 05-02-2002, 09:43 AM

Virginia; my shaper is 3hp, 220v, single phase and is reversable. The one big advantage of the shaper over the router table is that you can mount a cutter for over cuts or under cuts depending on the length of spindle and amount of travel. You can only prefrm an under cut with the router table. Makes a big differance when running molding.
JohnP

**Weez** · 05-07-2002, 04:37 AM

Sorry about not getting back and saying thank you for the responses. I was in a mode of thinking (there has to be a better way). Although at the time I had 5 different type of set ups to make with the current set up I have, and I was just a little fustrated.

Thanks again
Weez