Johanna Senior Member
Posts: 685
Joined: 04/10/2005
So Ralph, except for a situation where you need a rebate wider than is possible with a router, would you ever choose to use the jointer rather than a router? I have always known that I could cut rebates with my jointer, but have never tried it.
Johanna
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Johanna - in the Land of Enchantment
I don't do it all that often myself, but there are times.
Where a stair meets a landing, you make a 1" thick piece (to match the stair treads) but need to rabet the rear underside to 3/4" to match the flooring. The jointer is a great tool for making these "nosings" since the rabet is often 3 1/2" wide or more.
Also, rabetting on the jointer makes it much easier to get a smooth, even cut as opposed to using multiple passes with the router or dado blade.
Like I said, I don't often use it, but it is another useful option to have at your command. There is almost never only one "right" way to do anything in the woodshop.
dshaw340 Junior Member
Posts: 1
Joined: 07/15/2009
I looked at the video. Can anyone explain why it is necessary to line up the knives with the rabbetting ledge. I can't quite get my head around it. I can understand if the knives are too far in the wood would hit the outfeed table but if the knives are out past the rabetting ledge I can't see where this would be a problem.
1st, in order to accurately set the fence for the rabet width, you would have to know which blade was furthest and measure to that one. (or have all three perfectly set side to side)
2nd, having a knive beyond the tables means it would be cutting without the benefit of chippers. The infeed table edge acts as a chipper, helping to minimize tear out as the blades cut the wood. Out past the table, and this support is gone, and at the inside edge of your rabet, where tearout is most likely to be a problem.
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05/02/2009 08:38 AM
