When a beginning woodworker takes on a project, she usually stocks her shop with tools for basic operations: something to cut with, something to drill holes with and something to measure with. Lots of beautiful projects can be made with surprisingly few tools.

The saber saw, or "jigsaw" is a standard first purchase, but if a thin workpiece isn't stabilized while being cut with one, the rattle and vibration it can cause will tingle you from apex to appetite, to put it politely.

Years ago, when the saber saw was my only powered cutting tool, I needed a high flat table to lay the workpiece on because the reciprocating blade extends 3 1/2" to 4" below the baseplate of the saw.

With two pieces of 2x6 pine for end pieces (about 12" long) and two 1x6s secured flat across them with a one-inch space open in the middle, I made a jig to fit across the width of the workbench (in this case, 15"). By attaching an extra "heel" strip at the bottom of the front 2x6, I could lock the jig in the jaws of the bench's face vise to anchor it for any cutting operation.

The one-inch center opening of the jig allows the saber saw to cut through material being supported on both sides. If the cut is long, simply cut in for a bit, then move the piece toward you and you'll have another 13" or 14" of clear space to continue the cut.

Arcs and circles can be cut on the outside of the jig, turning the saber saw around the corner point and moving the workpiece as necessary. This only supports one side of the cut, but is sufficient if the cut off portion is supported by hand. Most workpieces can be clamped with spring clamps at the jig's sides, which makes the cut considerably more stable.

This jig is also useful for supporting work while drilling through holes with twist drills or a spade bit, if it's not too large. Place a scrap piece of plywood cut to fit below the jig to protect the benchtop, then secure the work so the drill bit will pass through the center space of the jig. Repeat holes in a long line can be done this way with a portable drill by moving the work forward.

After upgrading to stationary machines, I still pull out this jig to elevate work off the bench for edge sanding or to hand plane a short bevel. It stores on the shelf below the workbench and never really gets a chance to "collect dust". That's the real beauty of many jigs: we start out needing one for a particular function, then discover ways to adapt it to other uses. These are the ones worth keeping around!