In most parts -- but not all -- of the United States and Canada, homeowners are allowed to do their own wiring. If you're at all unsure about what's correct or safe, don't try it! Contact a qualified expert, licensed electrician, or local electrical inspector. Electricity is no joke; even small mistakes can result in shocks, fires, or electrocution.

Fluorescent vs. Halogen...I prefer fluorescent with a few low wattage incandescent to kill the flickering phenomena, headaches for some and nervousness for others and nothing for all the rest. I have found that halogen, if not applied properly, will cause hot spots and shadows. It seems to have a glare that my eyes are sensitive to.
- dicklaxt

Fluorescent vs. Halogen...I use almost all Halogen in my shop. It has two bulbs in each light fixture and it works well for all the lighting needs I have. It is very bright and leaves very little shadow effects due to their being two lights in each fixture. I have several fixtures that are targeted at different areas: bench, table saw lathe, etc.
- Bill

Fluorescent vs. Halogen...Halogen lighting is brighter, granted. It also will cost more in power as well. If I recall right, about 2 1/2 times more for the same lumens. But it's a nice bright light.
There's lots of flavors in fluorescent as well: warm whites, cool whites, bright whites. Look at the average hours they recommend for bulb life as well. Fluorescent go downhill as they age, that's why most places do group re-lamping on a schedule. Blackening of the ends tells of an aged bulb.
- Sonny Edmonds

If you are lighting from scratch or doing a major makeover, I would suggest staying away from cheap 'shop light' grade fixtures and going for those that are closer to 'commercial grade', which are also available at places like HD. The inexpensive fixtures (sometimes as low as $7.00) use an inferior ballast which have a short life. If you examine the fine print on some fluorescent tube packaging they specify a shorter life for the lamp when used in a 'shoplight'. Also, the better ballasts tend to be quieter over the life of the fixture.
A couple of side notes: I personally prefer 'color corrected' fluorescent, with a 3500 to 4000 kelvin rating, especially in areas used for finishing. They cost a little more (big surprise) but are much closer to the lighting your work is likely to be seen under when finished. Also, unless your fluorescent fixtures have cage guards or are hung fairly high, the inexpensive clear sleeves (at HD again) are a great idea to prevent falling shattered glass in case of collision with long boards, etc.
- Gary

There is an industry standard that deals with minimum lighting intensities for most applications.
General shop lighting is 70 footcandles with specific task lighting at 100 to 150 foot candles. (I suppose this is the time to explain what a footcandle is. One footcandle is the measure of illumination on a one square foot area one foot away from one lit candle.)
There are several ways to compute this requirement. The formula I most always use is called the Lumen (measurement of light) Method.

In this formula, the number of fixtures required is equal to the footcandle requirement times the area of shop in square feet divided by the lumens per fixture times the co-efficient of utilization (amount of light actually used) times the light loss factor (how clean a fixture is or kept).

Let assume a shop with dimensions of 18' x 20' this equals 360 sq.ft.The light loss factor constant is .75 and the co-efficient of utilization is .65
By substituting the above values into the formula and solving for the number of fixtures we get...

X = 70 times 360 divided by 3150 times 2 times .75 times .65. (The number of lumens 3150 is the standard for one 40 watt fluorescent tube and I assumed 2 per fixture). In solving this equation we get 8.2 fixtures required to have a mantained average of 70 foot candles.

In this size shop I would have 2 fixtures down the center of the 20 foot dimension with 2 foot spacing fixture to fixture and 4 foot from walls. In the other direction I would space the two rows of 3 fixtures, 7 foot off of centerline, space them 3 foot apart in the middle, and 1 foot off the walls. (If I were doing this in actuality I would add one fixture and have 3 rows of 3.)
For what its worth that's the exact science of determining the lighting levels you should have per the industry standard on lighting. I know that most would not go to this trouble but it really doesn't ake long to compute. The old saying if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
- dicklaxt

Go with the 20 amp outlets. That way you shouldn't ever be "wanting" for amps on any of your 120V tools. Of course a separate 240V line is in order for the dust collector and the table saw.
- Shawn DuGay

The cost of the outlets is something that I never worry about. The commercial outlets are designed to be used. The box of ten outlets you find at HD for a low price is designed to have a light plugged in and left for 5 years until your wife decides she wants to redecorate. The commercial outlets hold up to the kind of abuse we put things through in the shop.
You also want to dedicate a circuit to each of your large tools. Table saw, dust collector, jointer, planer, etc. Now is the time to get these wired, it is much harder later.
- Lou_williams

Rewiring is a pain. I suggest that in-wall wiring should be 12GA or 10GA. The reason is this, 12GA (20Amp), 10GA (30Amp) can be used now for 110V devices. Later you may want to switch some of those devices to 220V and the wiring will be able to accommodate them, the only changes being the breaker and the receptacle: no tearing through the walls. The other way is to run most of your wiring in conduit surface mounted on the walls. If you need to change wiring you can pull new wiring through. Just make sure to use large conduit.
Also don't forget to install some outlets in the ceiling. Ceiling mounted power cords are great.
When installing wall boxes use the largest and deepest ones you can. If you properly wire your circuits (i.e. using pigtails) you'll have lots of wire to store in your boxes. Finally, think about using a couple of sub panels to control your tools. For example the main panel (or main sub panel in your shop) should have the lights, emergency lighting, and a couple of 110V circuits on it. You should then have a subpanel for your machine circuits (table saw, dust collector, air compressor, jointer, powerstrips for hand tools, etc.). Now lets say you turn a bunch of tools on and trip the subpanel breaker. At least you will still have your lights on so you won't be working on a table saw in the dark.
BTW, if your building a shop the cost of the wiring, breakers, panels, switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc. are a part of the building cost and will reduce the amount of capital gains when you go to sell. So it doesn't make a lot of sense to fuss over the cost of these fixed items.
- Steve

I would suggest 15Amp system. Odds are your not going to be using more than one power tool at a time except perhaps a lamp or shopvac as a dust collector. If your popping a 15Amp breaker reassess what your doing. The bigger stationary tools should be on their own 15Amp leg. I've yet to use my portable planer and or say my RA at the same time.
If a tool can be converted to 220 do it. It's not cheaper per amp\hr but is better for the tool and may enhance its performance. Also consider the addition of a few switch operated outlets, be nice if, say you could flip a switch for the shopvac\DC to come on.
- Glen

If your wiring is old (fuses went out 30 years ago) and you know little about electricity, I would suggest that it's time to call in a pro. Ask around and find out if one of your friends/coworkers knows a good electrician who would be willing to come out and give you some suggestions. Electricity can burn your house down if not properly managed. You reach a certain point when it's time to bite the bullet and pay a good electrician to come in and straighten out the mess. If you've been having intermittent electrical problems elsewhere then this is DEFINITELY time to call in an expert. While it may cost some $$$ to have your panel & service upgraded, this can be a wise investment in your home.
- Mad Mark

Make sure that you put electrical outlets every 6' or so and run electric down any adjust-a-posts in your basement.
- Robert Walker

Having bought my home from an electrician, I have 110v outlets ever 30 inches along three walls and one 220v on two walls.
- Jerry

I am 80% completed with my workshop, after waiting years. I was lucky enough to have a lot of space (more space than money; one always exceeds the other). The funny thing is that the most important preoccupation turned out to be power and wiring. I ended up running metal conduit across three walls, with plug-ins every 4 feet (I hate extension cords), and light with switches on the walls, regularly spaced. There are two circuits but it all turns off with one main switch on the wall, so I can sleep at night not worrying about shorts, etc.
- Dan

You might want to add power outlets in the floor if at all possible.
- Ralph in San Diego

Design the lighting so that you have adequate lighting for sanding and finishing. The new tubular halogen lights are great... far better than fluorescent shop lights.
- Robert Walker